Lyttleton to Arrowtown

March 5, 2023

I am thrilled to say that I made it much further south than I ever expected! Despite my last-minute decision to make the trip, I am already having a blast. I received some great advice from some locals who recommended the stunning coastal route, which did not disappoint. However, I plan to take a different route back up and explore the southern Alps and glaciers.

To ensure my motorcycle is in tip-top shape for my journey, I stopped by Morrisons Motorcycles, a fantastic shop run by the incredibly kind Kieran. While he was working on my bike, I took the opportunity to explore Christchurch and stumbled upon a cool skate shop where I picked up a new hoodie. Although the screenprinting shop I wanted to visit was no longer around, I still had a great time checking out the local scene, including the nearby Ducati specialist, Mecanica.

The long ride ahead was definitely a challenge, and after about 3.5 hours, my body was feeling the strain. Even my titanium collarbone was starting to ache! But despite the discomfort, I was having fun testing out the difference between 91 and 95 octane gas, and I was pleased to see that the latter gave me more mileage per tank.

As I continued south, I was blown away by the stunning teal-blue waters and picturesque beaches. The sandy shores were a welcome change from the rocky beaches up north. Although being surrounded by meat processing plants and cattle farms did give off some unfortunate odors.

But as I approached Arrowtown, the landscape shifted once again, revealing breathtaking mountains and a winding river. I couldn't help but daydream about sliding around on the gravel road on the other side of the river, but it was important to focus on the road ahead. I found myself actually daydreaming while the setting sun was blinding me. Not good.

Finally, I arrived in Arrowtown, an old mining town that is just as charming as it is historic. I'm staying with a friend of a friend, Rod, who runs a helicopter repair shop and has an impressive collection of race bikes. After a brief chat with Rod and his wife, I was ready to hit the hay and recharge for more adventures tomorrow!

Lyttleton, Pigeon Bay and Mapu

March 4, 2023

As the raindrops continue their symphony throughout the night, I wake up to a morning with a promising forecast - small hints of blue sky tease from above. Curiosity leads me down to the Lyttleton market, a charming hub where I stumbled upon some freshly made tempeh that set my taste buds alight. The buzz of locals swarming cafes and bars and browsing through the market offered a glimpse into the laid-back life in Lyttleton.

With a full tank of gas, I venture towards Pigeon Bay. The slow speed limit for the windy roads doesn't sit well with my need for speed, so I take the opportunity to overtake a handful of drivers before reaching the open roads. Suddenly, the pavement disappears, replaced by gravel as the road becomes steep and curvy. The thrill of the adventure on the rocks and the breathtaking views make me feel alive, and after 30 to 40km, the pavement is back, winding through Gebbies Pass and Dyers Pass.

The rain that began sprinkling turned into more, leaving me freezing even with my three layers of clothing. I needed to get home but was still an hour away. As soon as I arrive back home, I dive into a steaming shower, but my hands and feet remain numb. There is no real heat in the room except a plug-in plate on the wall, which I huddled in front of. Warming up, I get ready to go. I head to Mapu Test Kitchen for a dinner I've been eagerly anticipating.

Chef Giulio's concept of no hours and no menu, trusting the chef entirely, is something I have fantasized about making myself, and his restaurant did not disappoint. The seven courses and wine pairing were exceptional, and the company was just as remarkable. An older couple from Christchurch, two younger foodies, including a restaurant owner from Auckland, and myself all shared a communal dining experience. We chatted with Chef Giulio, felt like we were in his kitchen, and savored every dish.

The young foodies next to me happened to also be bikers, one being the first Ducati owner I’ve met who didn’t also work at a shop. Intrigued by my profession they generously recommended some other industry folks for me to meet. In addition they recommended fantastic Auckland restaurants for me to try. Kiwi hospitality at its finest - always trying to help and always so kind. All in all, a day filled with adventures, breathtaking views, exquisite food, and the warmth of hospitality.

Hamner Springs to Lyttleton

March 3, 2023

Today, my adventure started fashionably late thanks to an early morning call. Despite the delay, I was excited to hit the road and explore the scenic route to Lyttleton/Christchurch. The roads were as direct as a nonstop flight, even the small ones, with vast farmlands and wineries for company.

However, the chill in the air was more unwelcoming than an ice cube down the shirt , so I opted to take some smaller routes down south. It was then that I stumbled upon a deep gravel road and couldn't resist the temptation of off-roading. Alas, it was short-lived, and back to pavement, I went.

Riding at a slower pace allowed me to take in the beauty around me, and I couldn't help but notice a lot of parked cars near a park. Curiosity got the better of me, and I found myself in the middle of a charming farmer's market. The Vietnamese food truck caught my eye, and I ordered a vegetarian tofu bahn mi and ice coffee, which hit the spot. However, the spice level left me craving more fire.

Resuming my journey, Lyttleton welcomed me with its hilly and windy roads and artistic vibes, reminiscent of San Francisco. I decided to explore Pigeon Bay, which turned out to be a beautiful ride with teal waters and dramatic landscapes. However, I realized I needed gas and had to choose between a gas station back in Christchurch or on my route. Naturally, I opted for the latter and was relieved to find one after 45km, just in time. Alas, it was a 24/7 gas station, which meant no attendant, and my credit card refused to work. Talk about a buzzkill!

Undeterred, I headed back to Christchurch, got gas, and grabbed some groceries, but the rain finally caught up with me, and I decided to take it easy for the night at my bnb. While the day had its ups and downs, it was all in the name of adventure and learning a new system.

Blenheim to Hamner Springs (via Molesworth Trail)

March 2, 2023

Good morning, sunshine! Today I woke up early and sprang into action. I was psyched to meet up with my new buddies, Andrew and Guy, for a ride on the Molesworth Muster Trail. I didn't want to be tardy, so I got all geared up and ready to roll.

When I checked in with Andrew and Guy, they were running a bit late. No worries! I found a cafe to wait in and let them know where to meet me. In the meantime, I struck up a convo with some cool cyclists who clued us in on an off-road route to Molesworth.

Our journey began with a gravelly, two-hour jaunt through typically brown farmlands that had been transformed into lush, green vineyards thanks to recent rains. The wineries may not be too thrilled with the early ripening grapes and potentially fungus-ridden plants this year, but we sure were loving the scenery!

The Molesworth Muster Trail is a rare gem that's only open a few weeks out of the year. It snakes through New Zealand's largest farm and boasts flat gravel sections, as well as challenging zig-zags and steep hills along the river. Despite the sweltering heat, we were grateful to have dodged the rain that was looming on the horizon.

We broke for lunch at a picnic table and busted out our trusty Trekker meals. Those babies are a lifesaver - just add hot water and voila! They're tasty, nutritious, and lightweight, making them perfect for the trail.

After lunch, we hit up Jollie's Pass and, let me tell you, it was a hoot and a half. Even though my Bonneville wasn't the most suitable ride for the terrain, I had a blast tearing through the rutted, muddy paths that snaked through the pine trees. I even had a close call where I almost took a spill into the water, but I managed to slide into the bush instead.

With our adrenaline pumping, we made our way back to town. Just one little problem: there are no gas stations along the route, and my tank was running low. But we pushed on, determined to make it to the end. And boy, was it worth it! I'm forever grateful to Andrew and Guy for letting me tag along on this epic adventure.

We capped off the night with a well-deserved pint at a local pub in Hamner Springs, where we bumped into Kelly and her Ural sidecar that we also met on the ferry. What are the odds? It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

Waiiti to Whanganui

February 23, 2023

Getting up early I was hopeful that my starter solenoid arrived at the dealer. It poured last night and I did not get a good night’s sleep. I had to pee several times and the bathroom is not in the room. It is a short-ish walk away down a gorgeous but far in the middle of a rainy night path. One night I peed in the garden but this night in the torrential rain I peed into a cup and tossed it into the garden, then left the cup in the rain to clean out all night long.

I was having a hard time leaving. The surroundings were so peaceful and I didn’t want to have to forge a path in unknown lands. But like Abel Tasman before me, I must go forth. Saying goodbye to the serenity and a few cute animals I got on the road and went! It was still misting but only lightly. Down the long gravel roads to the main road, I rode. Rain was threatening but didn’t come. Yet.

The dealer did not get my part! NOOOOO. They found a spare Yamaha solenoid and let me try that. I wired it in but it didn’t work. I was not going through my usual thoroughness because all the techs were curious about what was happening but due to that curiosity were getting in trouble with the manager. I needed to get out. I tested the clutch switch, good. The spare solenoid, good, but the bike still wasn’t starting…. Something to think about.

Off I go. It was suggested I check out Eurobike Wholesaler. I went by there, it was only a few km away. They were the Ducati importer for many years and now just do accessories, mostly from Italy. They were so knowledgeable and kind. We chatted for a while but the main owner and supermono racer was out to lunch. I decided to pack up and go as the rain was starting to get a bit more serious.

As I was jump-starting the bike, Rodney pulled up and I chatted with him briefly. I made a mental note to email him later. So off I go. I decided to go around Egmont National Park and the mountain inside of it. This took me to Highway 45. Surf Highway. What was I thinking?? It was SO windy. I was fighting the wind for about 1.5 hours. Only when I stopped to get gas did I realize the reason I kept seeing cool old cars wasn’t that the car show was over, it was because I was being escorted to the next town by all the cool older cars. Americarna moved south.

Of course, the gas station did not take my credit card. They seem to hate my credit cards. Only if a person is physically present to check my signature will a card work. Since this was a 24/7 station there were no workers. That means I can’t get gas. No one was around to offer cash to so I could use their card… Lets hope I can make it! I’m at about 230km.

I’m heading to Whanganui. No idea where it is or how big it is. I am freezing and wet and cranky and exhausted from all the wind. I make it to the address in my GPS. Its number 388. I pull into a farm driveway that is 382-386 and 390. There is no 388. But I’m on State Highway 3. I’m so confused. And cranky. And cold. Fretting I reach out to my host and ask about what house they are at. Then I realize Google Maps took me to the wrong house. I put in the correct town and address and its another 15 minutes. I can’t imagine riding another 15 minutes. I’m so cold.

But there is no choice. Heading off to the highway there is an option to go through town or take the highway. It appears they are roughly the same amount of time. Opting to take the local roads because the speed is slower turns out to be the best decision. Whatnagnui is such a cute river town. There are old-timey buildings on the river wending their way lazily around. There is a nice stone wall and several cute bridges. I’m so delighted to have gone this way. I want to stay and explore, except I’m freezing.

Finally! I’m in the right area and take a sharp right turn off the highway straight up a gravel road in the rain. No big deal. At the very top after another sharp turn, I find my little bnb. Thankfully its much cuter than I expected. AND my host gave me a parking spot under a shelter. How incredible. I got into the bnb took a hot shower and my host offered to wash my laundry. What more could I ask for? Taking it easy for the rest of the night. I watched the Maori Haka competition on tv.

Waiiti and Americarna

February 23, 2023

So this morning I woke up feeling like a kicked puppy because my bike wasn't cooperating. I wasn't going to let that ruin my day, so I dragged my butt out of bed and had a lazy breakfast in my awesome open-air kitchen. I mean, seriously, who wouldn't feel better with a croissant with veggies and fresh eggs and a view of the breathtaking scenery?

Feeling a little better, I couldn't resist hopping on my bike and tearing down the gravelly driveway. My mission: find a screwdriver, since I was borrowing one that wasn't mine. The first town I came across looked like it could barely fit on a postage stamp, so I kept going to the next one. And boy, am I glad I did!

I pulled into Waitara and found that all the roads were blocked off. I had no idea what was going on, but then I saw it: a full-blown vintage American muscle car show, called Americarna. I'm talking everything from classic 60s Corvettes to beefy 70s Mopars to sleek 50s Fords and beyond. It was like a gearhead's dream come true!

That's not even the best part. There were dudes with slicked-back pompadours and chicks in poodle skirts skipping around like they just walked off the set of Grease. I was half-convinced I'd stumbled into a time machine. It was so cool.

Still in need of a screwdriver, I stopped at what looked like a Salvation Army and asked the woman working if they had any tools. She didn't, but she called her partner, who apparently loves bikes. He told me about a dealer nearby, so I tried calling them to see if they had what I needed. No luck, it was hard to get parts on the phone, they were to busy.

So, naturally, I decided to ride over and check it out for myself. On my way back to my bike, I bumped into this dude Sinky, who had Ohlin's stickers plastered all over his peg leg. I mean, seriously, how could I pass up talking to him? He even had a bicycle spring rigged up on it for kicks.

The car show ended up being way bigger than I thought. I mean, there were rows and rows of sweet rides stretching for blocks and blocks, which I walked through. Sadly though, I didn't get to see them all. It was incredible - a field beyond full of perfectly restored cars.

Finally, I found myself at the New Plymouth Triumph Dealer, where I spent a good chunk of time chatting up Aliesha in the parts department. Sadly, they didn't have what I was looking for, but Sinky told me to ask for Andrew and tell him I was his long-lost cousin or something. While we were chatting about family history he told me he has some Ducati racebikes. Which is cool because I haven't seen that many Ducatis in all of New Zealand.

So, with any luck, the starter solenoid I need will come in the next day since I’m heading out of town tomorrow morning. I left the dealer feeling pretty good about the whole thing, even though my bike was still acting up. On my way home, I swung by the grocery store to pick up some grub for dinner. All in all, not a bad day

Tauranga to Waiiti

February 23, 2023

Ah, slowly getting ready for a nice long ride today. The Forgotten World Highway is where I’m headed. Looking forward to a wending road heading south and west. The morning is easy enough. I find a natural hot spring and desperately want to go in. It wasn’t easy to find, my host told me about it, it was just a pin on the map… Locals use only. Once there I realize I didn’t bring a bathing suit easily accessible for this. Oops. So, I go see who is in there and take up a conversation with the woman currently in the hot spring. I told her my predicament and ask if she minds terribly that I am suitless. She said she doesn’t mind and I hop in!

Now, I’m decidedly afraid of natural bodies of water. I don’t love oceans, rivers, lakes or basically anything water related. But what I’ve come to understand about myself is that if its like a large bath and the water is fairly calm and clear, all is right in the world. It feels like heaven. I want to stay for the entire day. I chat with the woman in there and she leaves eventually. After I don’t know how long its time to go. Sadly. I don’t have a towel either. Oops. I use my t-shirt to dry off and just put on my hoodie and jeans. Its fortunate the water was so warm because as soon as I started riding off the rain came. It kept me warm for a while.

I find highway 43, the Forgotten Highway. Its very pretty. There are a few scenic reserves I see and fail to stop. They come and go so quickly - before I even realize it. I decide on the next one, I’m stopping. Twisting and winding around I finally see another one, along a gorge. Great. Looks and sounds beautiful. I stop and wander off to see what is around. Looks like I stopped at the wrong one. Its not that beautiful except for the river a million feet below. That might be. Can’t tell…

Since I’m stopped I decided to check out the phone charging cable. Its not working and I’m in the middle of nowhere so I need to be powered up in case of emergency. Seems like the cable is bad, but I have a spare. Plug it in, get geared up and turn the key on. OMG. The bike takes off on its own! I hit the kill switch immediately and stare stupidly at it while it ghost rides itself down the road, eventually hitting a bump and falling over. Partially I’m impressed with how for it got by itself. Partially I’m thinking how the fuck am I going to pick this up?

Bike is still “starting” itself while on its side. I have to run around and get the key. The starter solenoid is stuck on. Great. Now, how do I lift this thing? There have been 3 or 4 people I’ve seen in the last hour, 30 minutes? Oh man, if those girls can do a Harley or Goldwing, I can do this. No prob. I back up to the bike grab the handlebar and front brake and the rail under the seat. HEAVE. Close. I get it up but not all the way. Oh, I need to put the side stand down on the other side, just in case. HEAVE! Still no. I take off my luggage and try one more time. SUCCESS! I got the bike up and am sweating profusely. All my gear now comes back off so I can figure out what the heck I’m going to do. The bike doesn’t look too damaged, phew. Mental note made to let Jon know what happened.

I saw there was a multitool on the key chain before I left so I am calm about possibilities. I go to take off the side cover in order to find the solenoid. The multitool is just a little baby knife. Doh! I try the knife to open the side covers and almost break it. Its also quite sharp so this feels unsafe. Ding! I have some NZ dollars which are coins. I grab a $2 coin and its a perfect fit for the bolts that hold on the side covers where the solenoid is held. With the cover off I pull off the power side of the solenoid and turn the key on, making sure the bike is in neutral this time. If I touch the power side of the solenoid wire to the solenoid for just a short period, its enough to start the bike up and get it running. If I leave it unplugged its not an issue. Ok.

Now geared up again its time to go. Side cover off, key on, touch the power side. NOTHING. WTF?! UGH. Now what? Am I sleeping here tonight?

I noticed I have no cell reception and no one has driven by this whole time. I try a few more times and nothing. Looking through the things packed for the bike in the pannier there is nothing helpful. I forget this bike is a commuter, not a tourer, there aren’t many tools on it. So all the gear comes off again, its so HOT by this time. Waiting for the next vehicle to flag for some reason isn’t that long. The first vehicle is a tractor-trailer (really? on this road?) that is flying by. Nope. I flag the next car which is miraculously not far behind. Running up to the woman in the passenger seat I ask for a tool kit. She looks at me quizzically. I ask again. She is confused. Getting out of the car she says “no English”. HA! I have her come over to the bike and pantomime a screwdriver. She says to the other person in the car in Swedish (? or something that sounds like it) what is needed. Her friend brings out a tiny set of screwdrivers. Maybe for a computer or something. Chuckling inside I gladly accept and quickly jumpstart the bike. They are duly impressed.

Gear back on, side cover on I take off after them. Now the road is getting even more luscious and beautiful. It goes gravel, still winding through the hills. Its incredible. I don’t really want to risk anything stalling the bike so I don’t stop many places for pictures though the urge is present every 5 miles or so. Its gone from deep rainforest and rivers to pastures and rolling hills.

Turning off Highway 43 onto an even smaller road that goes from gravel to pavement and back again, the ride continues for another long while until I get service again. Suddenly it dawns on me that this one said something about Google taking you to the wrong place if you follow it. I get the directions and try to understand. I don’t. The directions assume you are coming from the south, give actual km from a specific-ish point and are pretty unclear. I emailed her I didn’t understand and she just sends me the same thing again. Ok….

Oh, this bike doesn’t have an ODO that works, the motogadget wasn’t working when I took off, so I dunno. I’ll just wing it and worst case…email her again? Ask for her number and get directions while I’m riding. Its hard to read directions, look at GPS (you have to swap screens on the phone) and ride at the same time on new roads. So winging it works! Lots of gravel and lots of turns there it is. A long windy steep driveway later and I’ve made it!

I’ve never been so happy to get off a bike in my life. I’m sore, cranky, tired, sweaty. Unpacking is even pleasurable. The host comes up on her quad, getting ready to re-string some electrical fencing. Shes a hard-working farm woman. I ask her if she has an old screwdriver I can use or have. She says walk up to the house and ask her son. He will get it. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Unpacked, room found, kitchen loaded up I take a look at my surroundings and sigh a breath of relief. It is magnificent. Set on a hill, you can see the ocean from here. The walkways are lined with hydrangeas 8 feet tall and overgrowing. There are lemon and lime trees, 6 foot tall rosemary bushes, lavender. So many beautiful things that also smell delicious.

I’m starving. The host kindly left me some veg to cook for dinner since I’m on the bike and maybe unable to get things at the store. Quickly, put together a stir fry of veg and some rice she left. Viola! Perfection. A little glass of wine I brought, perfectly aerated after all that drama earlier. Nothing tasted better in my life. Now, I’m just realizing that despite being very cute. This is a converted RV made into a cute airbnb room and the bathroom is very far away. I pee in the night often and WHAT? Why would I book this?

I didn’t even notice when booking. Going back through the pictures, its all there, nothing is misleading. Haha. I guess I wasn’t really looking I was mostly anxious to find a place to sleep for a few days. It will do.

Tuaranga and Otanewainuku Reserve

February 21, 2023

This morning I’m stressed. I have my ferry ticket, but now what? So many hotels are booked, airbnbs booked and now the ferry booked. It looks like the day it day by day is a little harder than I knew. It turns out the cyclone displaced an entire city. Those people need places to stay and many friends are taking them in as are businesses. What a great country. Everyone is helping out in the way they can. Not so great for the tourist trying to find a place to stay the day before.
I spend the first several hours in the morning planning my entire trip. I hate that. But it’s necessary to stop unnecessary anxiety.

Now, what should I do with my day? I decided to take another hike. There isn’t a ton to do out this way and south of where I’m staying is destroyed by the cyclone. It’s meant to be incredibly beautiful but impossible to get to. Today I am going to Otanewainuku Reserve. It is a Kiwi Zone. Where the cute little flightless birds live. No dogs are allowed in the area, they can kill the birds.

It is a beautiful hike full of native trees and plants. Its so different from the New England plant life I’m used to. Also, there are many different bird calls I’m not used to. I stop to record them along the way many times - and to take pictures of mushrooms, of course. A man I saw in the parking lot caught up with me and asks if I’m going to the waterfall. Yes. We both are. He says if I want to swim its lovely but some of the coldest water in NZ. I say no thank you.

As I get closer to the waterfall I notice there is cattle mooing and its so loud and insistent I’m kind of turned off of the nature part of the hike. How are there farms so close and cows so loud? Is it feeding time? Its in the middle of the afternoon. Jeez.

Once at the waterfall, I get there about 3 minutes after him. He promptly takes off his clothes and jumps in. I stuck my hand in the water and boy is it cold. No way. He swims around and I contemplate life. The water does look incredible. Its a pretty teal, clear and roiling. Definitely not for me. The thought of it almost has me in tears and hyperventilating. After a few minutes of contemplation, I head back.

The walk back is shorter than the walk there, I take fewer recordings of birds. The bike is there waiting and I hop on to ride home. It was a pretty easy day, really. I get my things together that night and prepare for tomorrow’s departure.

Tuaranga and Mt. Maunganui

February 20, 2023

Good morning! Time to take the adventure to the rocks. I am going to climb up Mt. Maunganui. I don’t know much about it but some people climb it to practice for hiking passes in the region. Sounds super easy. I’m definitely in shape for that….

Once on the bike I head leisurely to Tauranga. What an ugly looking entrance to the town. It is all shipping containers and refineries. I guess that stuff needs to go somewhere, I’m not used to seeing it so close up. Getting into town though you see its a cute and normal beachy town. There is a main street that has shops and restaurants. I quickly park and head into a pharmacy to get a big tube of zinc sunscreen. The ozone hole is over NZ so the sun is no joke here. Then its time for breakfast.

Rice Rice Baby was recommended to me as someones fav Vietnamese place. I check it out. Five minutes past its opening time there are already 10 people in there either currently eating or waiting to be served. Its a good sign. I order veg bun, cold noodle salad, with real fish sauce. The server looks at me like I’m crazy. Haha. Maybe I am. While waiting on my food looking around I see the branding is out of my technicolor dreams. All neon teal and hot pink. Its fun. Its also super hipster, something you could see in Bushwick. The food was decent. Not the best certainly not the worst. It did the job.

Now time to hike.

The base is easy. You walk in and head to the right. Round the base there are little slopes and lots of pretty beach views. Its not a busy day so there is lots of space if you want to get on the sand and sunbathe or swim. The water is cold. There are steps down to a rocky outcropping. I am hopeful there are tide pools and climb down. Walking on the large stones the water trapped appears to hold nothing so I jump down into the sand. Once in the sand I realize its not sand but millions of shells. Incredible! This is where sand is born. Limpets, snails, hermit crab homes, clams, every shell shape you can image, they are all here. What a delightful sight.

Ok back to hiking. Around some more and I see a huge shipping container with what looks like 100+ containers on it coming into the port. What are they bringing here? There is lots of fertile land for food, but not much else. Most things are imported. Then, there it is! The stairs I was looking for. The ones people practice on pre-pass hiking. I naively head up full of gusto. Oh boy, by 10 minutes I’m pooped. I love the fern trees though so inspecting them has become my reason for not continuing straight up.

Luckily, I brought a bandana to wipe the sweat away and fan myself as it is so hot. Also, brought some water, which is quickly disappearing. I keep stopping and starting. Once I see a 70 year old man come down the stairs. At least there are other people here. I see little markers every so often saying “marker 43” or something like that. In case emergency services need to be called they can find you quickly. I take a mental note each one I pass. I see the end. Its coming. I get to the landing and see that I just need to walk 20 feet over and the stairs continue.

About 30 minutes later I am at the top of this section. Phew. It continues up slopes and stairs for another 20 minutes or so. Its not that long. But, when the signs say moderate or difficult they are not joking. Fitness levels are much higher here in NZ than they are in America. Finally at the summit I join the other folks who decided it was a good day to hike. Seeing how many people are there I realize there is a much easier route up than the one I took. Classic…

Its just an extinct volcano and a lot of ocean. Beautiful but not much going on up there so I start hiking down. That was fun. Now my legs won’t stop hurting for another few days. Its been a week of sore legs from all the hiking I’ve been doing. I brought a bathing suit and towel, but the ocean is not my friend, especially when its so cold. So I head back to the cottage.

On the way I get some groceries to make dinner for myself. White House will not be my meal two nights in a row. I start researching my next stop at the cottage and realize the ferry to south island is booked until March 1! Thats a few days longer than I intended to be stuck up north. I start to panic a little and book a ticket. It turns out one of the two ferry companies has a broken boat and with the cyclones mucking things up they can’t get parts to fix it. Oh boy.

Its still light out so I decide to go to the quarry nearby and see what that is all about. Its a bit of a hike, again. I was so tired I wasn’t going to hike. But after walking around a little bit I’ve convinced myself to do it. I go up and see the rose garden, orchid garden, fuchsia garden and a million butterflies. What a dream. We should do this in America. Turn the ugly devastation of a derelict quarry into a beautiful park for people to delight in. It also sells showy native plants to the community. Pretty cool honestly.

I stare out in the the distance marveling at the fact that I can see the sea from every vantage point I’m on here. Its pretty cool. I don’t go into the ocean but admire it secretly from a distance. Its beautiful. Its getting dark so I head back and make dinner and to bed.

Auckland to Tuaranga

February 19, 2023

My plan for this trip is to take each day as it comes and figure out plan as I go. I love to do that. There was a big cyclone a few days prior to my arrival and with that several of the most beautiful towns were destroyed and roads closed due to mud slides or trees down. This is already adding the adventure to my motorbike adventure.

I set out today after climbing Mt. Eden with Brian. It was roughly 4pm and with the Triumph Bonneville, I outfitted to look like an old military bike or Royal Enfield for my customer several years back, loaded I headed out. It felt so nice to be on the road. Freedom comes with the wind at your back. It was mostly larger highways to get out of the city limits. Now, mind you, big highway in NZ is still a 2-4 lane highway. Nothing like the mega highways we have in the USA.

I’m heading to a cute spot just outside of Tauranga. I didn’t want to stay at the beach so instead I found a place up no a hill a few miles away. It is tucked deep behind a few orchards, is secluded and silent. What a dream. I got in pooped from about 4 or 5 hours of riding straight. Only stopped for gas. Its pretty country so far. It was close to 8pm by the time I arrived. I looked at google maps to see what was nearby for food and almost everything was closed. I booked it to the first thing I found that was open. The White House.

Heading to the roundabout Google Maps says its on the corner. I have to go round a few times and then pull over to figure out what the heck it means. I don’t see a sign, I don’t see a place it could possibly be, I don’t see anything. Its still light out, mind you. I guess it might be on the corner but behind several buildings so I try my luck at the parking lot with the liquor store, not shady seeming at all. Around and around I finally find it behind a few other businesses and corners.

Going in I noticed its pretty busy for the fancy restaurant it appears to be. The food is great. The sunset was beautiful. The staff here is so nice. We chat for a while about the local area and I asked what the server wants to do after he graduates uni. Finance. Even here in the middle of nowhere they want to make more money. Makes sense. We need it to live.

After dinner with a recommended dessert I head back to the cottage. By now it is very dark. I jumped off the bike and promptly laid down on the concrete. The stars! I was hoping to see all new stars but I found Orion, though he seemed drunk and upside down. There were others I didn’t know though since NZ is in the southern hemisphere. It was pure bliss laying there looking at the stars, full of good food and good adventure.

Good night.